Staten Island - Snug Harbor and Nonnas of the World
When most people think of New York City day trips, Staten Island doesn't always make the top of the list. It absolutely should. My latest excursion took me across the harbor to Staten Island for the very first time for an afternoon of quiet gardens, deep history, and one of the most heartwarming dining experiences in the five boroughs.
After making my way across the bridge, the day started at the Snug Harbor Cultural Center & Botanical Garden. It’s a peaceful retreat right on the north shore with a myriad of things to do and see. Wandering through the different gardens feels like stepping out of the city entirely and offers a great canvas for photography and thought. It feels like you’re walking in a moment in time that was. The grounds includes the Staten Island Museum and the World Trade Center Educational Tribute. Tucked into the historic campus, the tribute center is a small, deeply moving space dedicated to reflection and memory. I appreciated being able to see photos and reflect upon the tragedy as the anniversary approaches.
Meandering around the harbor grounds, an old building with open doors and a fitting sign, Egger’s, caught my eye. I took a peek inside out of curiosity, and according to the signage, Egger’s has been serving homemade scoops since 1932. Stepping inside brought feelings of nostalgia with old signage from childhood. The absolute best part of the menu? They serve fantastic vegan ice cream. It’s a huge win, meaning anyone who is lactose intolerant can still sit back and enjoy a rich, sweet treat on a warm summer day. I had the vanilla flavor.
As the time for my late lunch reservation approached, I headed over for the main event, dinner at Nonnas of the World (former Enoteca Maria). Instead of traditional restaurant chefs, the kitchen is run by a rotating cast of grandmothers from across the globe, bringing their own deeply personal family recipes to the table.
The restaurant features an open kitchen, meaning you can sit and watch the Nonna of the day work her culinary magic. Depending on where you’re sitting, you might not be able to see exactly what she’s doing, but you can definitely see the smile on her face. On this visit, our chef was a wonderful Nonna from Peru. She actually stepped out of the kitchen to walk the dining room, meet the guests, and graciously take a photo with us. It gave the whole lunch the warmth of a Sunday family gathering at home. What makes the restaurant feel even more homey are all the action figures and toys strewn about on the ceiling, shelves, and counters.
Then came the food.
I started with the Ceviche Mixto, and it was nothing short of spectacular. The dish was a masterclass in balance, with bites that were perfectly zesty, salty, and sweet. The Peruvian corn carried an unexpected, delightful flavor that tasted just like popcorn. It had my eyes open widely in shock and amazement. As I took each bite—first the tender shrimp, then the crunch of the corn, followed by the soft, earthy sweetness of the sweet potato—the ingredients literally took turns on the palate. That constant rotation of textures and flavors was absolute magic in my mouth.
For the main course, I had the Branzino al Cartoccio, a beautifully tender Mediterranean Seabass baked in parchment to lock in all the aromatics and lemon-herb sauce. I then finished the meal with a light, refreshing Chia Coconut Pudding with Mixed Berries for dessert.
To complete the trip, I made one final stop at Cafe St. Marks which was only a few minutes walk away. It’s a stylish, incredibly welcoming neighborhood gem with a relaxing aesthetic. I grabbed an iced matcha latte, soaked in the cozy atmosphere, and reflected on my stuffed stomach and day on the island.
Staten Island has a way of hiding its best moments in plain sight. You just have to know where to look. I will definitely go back again.